Zen's new hobby

[TX-Zen]

Black 3 and I have been out at the pistol range a few times lately and it's brought back fond memories of how much I've enjoyed shooting weapons over the course of my life. I've had the good fortune to fire everything from the M1911, M9 and other pistols, M16, AK47, FN-FAL's and a few shotguns all the way to crew served weapons like the M2 Heavy Barrel, M60 MGs and a host of tank mounted weapons and even a few rocket launchers, as well as the nifty little M203 grenade launcher. I must say that I really enjoy spending time at the range

Across the past 15-20 years I've never actually owned a firearm, (having gotten my fill from the military and various friends arsenals) but this year I've decided to buy my first rifle, which I might actually do today. Been thinking about it for probably going on 3 years now but for one reason or another just never got around to it. After much deliberation with Black 3, we decided that the time was ripe to go out and blow some shat up at the range, and here we are.

I think down the road I might end up with a collection, but I'm going to start with a trusty M4 followed closely by the venerable AK47, which is also one of my all time favorite rifles. Perhaps in the future I'll end up with these:










Surely one of them must be effective against this fearsome creature:



Zen

[TX-Gunslinger]

AHHHHHHHHHHIIIIIIIIIIEEEEEEEEEEE!The last picture is really scary.I like the 74.Black 2 TX Flight Leader"In a match, the pilot who kills only one enemy and lands safely is priceless beyond measure, while the pilot who kills two and dies once is almost worthless, as he has lost a plane, a pilot and forsaken his wingman"

[TX-CUDA]

Good choice of weapons Zen. I prefer the heavy barrel 7.62 Nato round in the Springfield Armory M14 and the SIG SSG for those long range shots that the 5.56 just can't reach.TX-CudaMinister of Information

[TX-FlightRisk]

Now that is the way to get some Cartman ATHORI-TIE.I built this one from parts...... Fit and done Parkerizing myself and all. This picture does it no justice. I love this gun....
I restore a lot of military guns... This is just a small taste of my collection...

And here is a better shot of one of my battlefield restores... I even milled the sight to new to original specs as well as the stock is made from fine furniture legs. The fins were some smart shooting brave SOB's..And were very good at scavenging. This gun will drive tacks. Belgian made FN Barrel...Stock is floated off the barrel and the hand guard doesn't touch it...........
S~TX-FlightRisk "If my plane is smoking it can mean one thing...I have been hit in one of my ass cheeks and I am cauterizing my wound....."

[TX-Rex]

The collection looks great. i just sold most of my bayonets that prob would of gone with most of the older rifles. my son has some going up  for bid on ebay sun. one is a for the ak 47. some that would fit mousers. now i just collect phones.TX-Rex

[TX-EcoDragon]

Do your worst Zen. . . the Emu needs no weapons as it need not make up for inadequate innate combat capability.GRRRRRBRRRRRRAAAAAAAAAAWWWWWWWWKKKKKKKKK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!S!TX-EcoDragonBlack 1TX-Squadron XO

[GOZR]

waoo me.. i have only a single shot passed to dad to son...   not fast but very useful....-GOZR

[TX-FlightRisk]

I had a question from Black 3 about Gun finishes and I wanted to go over it here where I do not create this monster email to one person when I can share my mind and experiences with the masses.The finish I use on my wood stocks is Boiled Linseed oil. Now the Tung Oil vs. Boiled Linseed Oil finish has been raging for years. I just have a personal favorite of Boiled Linseed Oil. I have worked with it for year’s ad I know the finish I will get out of it. It is considered a more in the stock than on the stock finish that will be built up to be like glass. If your inpatient, take a hike, no since in even reading this.Before we start.....NOTE: Linseed Oil soaked rags can be dangerous because of spontaneous combustion. Used rags should be washed immediately or stored in water filled containers. Never leave oil soaked rags unattended. I personally use a 50 cal ammo can that has a waterproof seal in the lid. I throw my rags in there and lock the lid down....No Oxygen.... No fire.... Seriously guys, I have seen these rags catch on fire and it was only one rag wadded up, It turned black in the middle from smoldering and I caught it in time. Had to take it outside and stomp on it, so respect this stuff.Okay guys here we go, first off I get a lot of guns that have seen battle and also many years of hard storage. Most old guns instead of missing wood are just plain dinged up. I start off with a varnish remover or stripper. I take it down to the bare wood everywhere. Of course the metal has already been removed, with the exception of the stock cross bolt in front of the trigger group. After it is down to its now ugly bare wood, believe it or not, I have a large galvanized tub and I fill it with the hottest water I can and dawn dish soap (It takes grease right out of your way… it works really.) I scrub the stock with a wash rag and Dawn once and then I throw the stock in the tub of water and let it swell for about five to ten hours. All the dings will come out with this method and it will wash out the grain and open the grain back up. When you pull this stock out of the water, take a Brillo pad, the kind with that pink soap in it and give it a quick scrubbing and rinse it off good. Now take a towel and dry it with a hair dryer to run over it for a few minutes, I use one of those small garage heaters. This will keep the wood from warping. Hang it and do not stand it on end leaned against the wall. It will cause it to warp. Walk away and let it sit 24 hours. When you come back hit the whole thing with a 320 grit paper being careful not to over sand the area where the metal meets the wood.I do want to warn, this method above could swell out any original cartouches or markings in the stock, I have yet to see it do that but it could. Mine were all still intact. Also it will possibly devalue a collector’s piece if the person that wants to buy it from you wants the original nastiness all over the rife to show its battle history……. That said BAHHHHH… I like my shat pretty and I can show pictures and give the history and have it written and place it under the butt plate for someone else if I died.Alright all, here is the meat that you can use for any gun and not just those military rifles, but it is also our next step to refinishing the gun we are working on above.Your stock may look very light at this point. If you use any stain which I do not recommend, use it gently and very light colors. The Linseed Oil alone will significantly darken your stock.Using a soft rag or your bare hand for you purists out there (which I am), rub in a small amount of Boiled Linseed Oil working in small sections at a time. There should be no visible layer of Boiled Linseed Oil, In other words WE ARE RUBBING IT IN TO THE WOOD AND WE DO NOT WANT A SLOPPY SHELAC OR POLYURITHANE LOOKING MESS WHEN WE ARE DONE WITH EACH COAT…. but once rubbed in you should simply have a shiny film over the previous application. Remember, we are not applying a surface treatment like a varnish or shellac, but we are penetrating the wood with each application. You should rub down the wood with 0000 steel wool after each coat has thoroughly dried from this point on. This accomplishes two things- it knocks down any bumps or streaks in the oil finish, and scuffs the surface of the underlying coat of oil so that the next layer has more surface area to bond with. Continue the process of1.) Rubbing in a smooth application of pure Boiled Linseed Oil. 2.) Allowing it to dry fully. 3.) Buffing with 0000 steel wool. Once you are satisfied with the sheen, you may choose to buff one last time with 0000 steel wool to give a military dull to the wood. If it’s commercial of course leave it shiny. I've done restorations done that were warm and deep, that the light shifted in the grain of the wood. Some of the finest require 15-30 applications of Boiled Linseed Oil though! Like I said, this is a time consuming labor for patient people. I personally follow this method.1.)   Every Day for two weeks.2.)   Every week for three Months.3.)   Every month for a year. You will have an absolute piece of glass.Now for you field hunters or guys that need a good shine that you can quickly touch up.Take 1/3rd Linseed Oil, 1/3rd Turpentine (acting as a solvent), and 1/3rd Beeswax, gently melted together over something other than an open flame (an old-time radiator used to work well). When it is well melted, it should be stirred and left to congeal... It turns into a paste that makes a great (military style) finish that looks like it took a million years to apply. Repairs easily, even in the field.Guys there is many more tricks I have for problems like checkering and what to do with it and filler…what to use. If you have any of these problems just let me know. I will be glad to explain it on coms.S~TX-FlightRisk "If my plane is smoking it can mean one thing...I have been hit in one of my ass cheeks and I am cauterizing my wound....."

[TX-Zen]

Funny you should mention that...the buttstock and forestock on my rifle are a shade too light for my taste, I prefer that richer, darker look. Based on what you've said FR, perhaps I can use Linseed oil to achieve the desired stain effect. Zen

[TX-FlightRisk]

If and only if it is an oiled rifle to begin with and not polyurethaned....or varnish unless you strip it.S~TX-FlightRisk "If my plane is smoking it can mean one thing...I have been hit in one of my ass cheeks and I am cauterizing my wound....."

[TX-Zen]

And here it is, a WASR-10 Rumanian manufacture, in all its glory:(379$ USD including 2 30 round mags, a sling and a cleaning kit)I fear even this will not be enough to injure the dreaded flightless bird, so I am building a bunker high atop a mountain erie accessible only by....flight. Perhaps I will be safe there for there is not a grain of sand to be found.Zen

[TX-Zen]

The wood is fairly rough to the touch, feels unfinished and unoiled for the most part. I think probably nothing will need to be done to it other than just using the linseed on it. Zen

[TX-FlightRisk]

Awesome... Sounds great!!!... And you do have the patience.....S~TX-FlightRisk "If my plane is smoking it can mean one thing...I have been hit in one of my ass cheeks and I am cauterizing my wound....."

[TX-FlightRisk]

What did you pay for that beauty Zen. That does not look Polyurethaned. Possibly oiled. You will know if it does not soak it up well. Pretty AK though. I Like to see a gun with oil running out of its pin areas. Good caretaker aren't you.S~TX-FlightRisk "If my plane is smoking it can mean one thing...I have been hit in one of my ass cheeks and I am cauterizing my wound....."

[TX-Zen]

Paid 379 for it, not bad at all. The oil is part CLP and part cosmoline, looks like they didn't scrub it all off before they put it in the box.Zen